The Frescos of Arki

High above Arki, you can see the stately Fort Hill from anywhere in town. It has deteriorated enough that you wouldn’t realize that some of the most significant artwork of the region lies inside it. Looking around the quiet town, it’s hard to imagine that 150 years ago this was a major center for the arts. Back then, Arki was the capital of the kingdom called Baghal.

The Palace was built by Prithvi Singh around the start of the 18^th century. However, it not until the mid 19^th century and the rule of Raja Krishan Singh that the arts truly flourished. He not only planned the town of Arki -- attracting scholars and artists from all over India -- but he also created the amazing mural room in the Diwan-i-Khas at the top of the palace between 1845 and 1854.

The murals depict an amazing variety of subjects from Puranic mythology to contemporary European cities. Many murals depict scenes from Punjabi folk art while others illustrate stories from Indian history. One mural appears to show a story from China. Witnessing this display, it is easy to believe that Arki once spawned a school of miniature painting bearing its name. Even if you aren’t familiar with the artistic disciplines contained within the walls of the Diwan, you will be impressed by the bright colors in even the simple Mughal-style floral patterns between the more impressive murals.

Even though the palace is plainly visible from the main road, many visitors would pass it by because of its poor condition and the fact that on first look, it appears to be merely an overpriced tourist hotel. As you circle the desolate exterior, you will not find any signs indicating what artistic treasures are inside. As a whole, the building is gloomy and vacant. The one sign at the gate warns that those who enter are subject to an entrance fee.

The current owner has gone through the trouble of renovating a few rooms inside the palace to rent out as a luxury hotel, but has not put the same effort into preserving the artwork. This remains a common problem in historical preservation – the pursuit of short term profit over long term investment. The chamber which contains the most compelling artwork is exposed to the elements through open windows. Some paintings are already worn out and water leakage slowly eats through the ceiling. Despite its relatively good condition today, the room will eventually decay through neglect and photographs will be all that remains of this unique piece of regional culture.